Ah, I think I understand what happened.
The short answer is that you should avoid using python, ipython, and jupiter notebook directly. hail, ihail, and jhail are wrappers around those commands that appropriately prepare your environment for the pre-packaged distribution of Hail.
What you and Tim worked out above is the appropriate settings for PYTHONPATH and SPARK_CLASSPATH for the pre-packaged distribution. The Getting Started page describes these variables under the Building Hail from Source heading, where they are set appropriately for the GitHub / source distribution of hail. The intention of the pre-packaged distribution is to set these environment variables for the user.
I’ve updated the Getting Started in this PR. Do you think these changes would have avoided some of your confusion?